celine men’s fashion show Menswear display at Paris nightspot Le Palace draws on indie aesthetic, topped off by using Libertines performance
If it’s stylish to be immersive, Hedi Slimane is à la mode. His menswear display for Celine concerned a takeover of the Paris nightspot Le Palace, in which on the hole night time lower back in 1978 Grace Jones had her clothes torn off by using the plastered crowd and became protected by way of Yves Saint Laurent, available with a nicely-positioned cummerbund.
Downstairs, almost 50 years later, the place changed into nonetheless fabulous and bedecked with sequins. With a style show, gig and party, Slimane’s challenge – in conjunction with showing the garments for autumn 2023 – changed into to create a disco to die for, a playground for the generation’s new membership youngsters.
A version walks the runway for the duration of the Celine display. Photograph: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
And, of course, they came, clad in dramatic appears – as an example, the experimental musician Yves Tumour, who changed into resplendent in a blue wig, outrageously decorated black leather jacket and fishnet stockings. Meanwhile, the street outside become closed in anticipation of the advent of Lisa from Blackpink, K-pop’s largest female band.
Slimane’s expertise is to create a parallel universe wherein style, tune and youth subcultures all come together to create a awesome entire. On Friday night, first there has been a style display, then a concert with the aid of the Irish band the Murder Capital and the Libertines, after which a party that stretched until 3am, populated through the club children of Paris who were the night time’s real stars, and a few celebrities starting from Catherine Deneuve to Wiz Khalifa. At the start of the display, Pete Doherty induced some consternation by bringing his huge canine with him to the front row, however regrettably the many TikTokers in attendance have been denied their viral moment when the mutt remained well-behaved and become ultimately led off by way of a canine handler.
In this beguiling different world, Slimane’s rock’n’roll aesthetic reigned best. Since the pandemic, the dressmaker has cocked a snook at the style week schedules, who prefer both to reveal movies instead of catwalk suggests, or to level large extravaganzas that absorb bands and a party.
In December in Los Angeles, he staged a display that covered performances with the aid of the Strokes and Iggy Pop and a runway that posited a go back to skinny denims – a fashion that, because the fashion designer of Dior Homme in the early 00s, he quite much invented. And Slimane’s instincts have proved beneficial, too – Celine has accomplished the €2bn turnover that the LVMH boss, Bernard Arnault, set as a target while the Frenchman took over the residence in 2018. Slimane had previously carried out his rock’n’roll aesthetic to Saint Laurent, a tenure that changed into arguable amongst a few fashion critics however supercharged the label’s business overall performance.
At the Celine show, Slimane was at his maximum uncompromising. Dozens of pairs of leather trousers had been marched down the catwalk, culminating in a stunning purple, diamante-studded two-piece that Khalifa told the Guardian he might be pleased to put on. Aside from that, in traditional Slimane styling there has been a fake-fur coat worn over a match jacket, over a vest with a leopardskin scarf.
Slimane has dressed rock stars for years, from David Bowie and Mick Jagger to Jack White of the White Stripes, who become also in attendance. If indie sleaze – the revival of the early 00s’ hedonistic appears – was a topic, Slimane was additionally nodding to electroclash, the early 00s club phenomenon that rebooted 80s synthpop and took its visible cues from Leigh Bowery’s mythical membership Taboo.
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Pete Doherty arrives for the Celine display. Photograph: Emmanuel Dunand/AFP/Getty Images
As nicely as in-your-face fashion, the show also honoured the network that Slimane has constructed up over extra than decades. Afterwards, the Libertines performed, fronted by way of Doherty, Slimane’s erstwhile muse when the singer become at the peak of his indie rock fame, however who’s now, happily, burly and center-aged. The performance yielded the pleasing spectacle of Khalifa nodding along to the lyrics “they all get them out for the men inside the band”.
Slimane has remained unshakeable in his enthusiasm for indie tune, in spite of the truth that inside the net generation it has dwindled as an avatar of younger revolt. Nevertheless, the younger Parisians inside the target market lapped it up, underlining the fact that the entire nighttime become ultimately a celebration of the simple joy of going out.
At its root, Slimane’s Celine is about the pride of unique occasions. He is instinctively aware about the which means of clothes – the frock you put on for your birthday, the footwear that make you feel as though you can tackle the arena. Displaying such an intense new release of this concept – even the tracksuit tops have been styled with leather trousers – Slimane paid tribute to the teenagers of Paris. But in the long run the show became approximately community in the net age, the power of togetherness and of finding your impeccably dressed tribe.
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